so the mechanic told me my break booster was out the peddle drops pretty far, and im not sure how to describe the way it feels but it feels wrong lol. question is how do you tell if its the break booster thats messed up or the vacuum line that runs from booster to intake manifold(i believe hats where it go's) ive heard the check valve can go out in em hopefully someones got some info for me
"BRAKE BOOSTER", sounds like what you need is this.....and I have it for sale very cheap LOL. Retails for $337.99. NEVER USED.... Show-quality brake combos come with a 7" dual diaphragm stainless steel booster and a chrome master cylinder with a 1" bore and dual 3/8"-24 IFF outlets (on both sides). Includes plugs for unused ports. I will let it go for $225 Never been used....Bought it for my Isuzu Project and never bolted it up!
If the pedal is super stiff its the booster. If the pedal is spongy and goes close to the floor it could be air in the lines or a bad master cylinder. Have you ever had the brake system apart? Did this issue just start or has it slowly gotten worse over a period of time?
So when you push on the pedal it goes down closer to the floor then slowly keeps going down till it stops at the floor? If so you need a master cylinder. Easy and cheap to do, just be sure to spend the money on a 10mm line wrench so you don't round off the nuts holding the lines down. Oh, and bench bleed it too.
Goggle checking a brake booster. But if I remember right ,start the engine,pump the brake pedal & hold it down & down the engine off. If the pedal goes down it is bad!
No, the booster wouldn't cause the pedal to go down a millimeter unless it is falling off the firewall. There is a solid connection from the pedal to the master cylinder all the booster does is make the pedal easier to push. If the booster fails the pedal will be a biotch to push due to there being no "boost" from the engine vacuum. I've seen the diaphragms inside the booster fail and cause a rising and falling idle due to a huge vacuum leak and I've seen master cylinders leaking by the piston into the booster and the brake fluid ruining the booster diaphragms so the engine would start smoking white as it burned the brake fluid. That caused a fawking mess, the brake fluid ruined the vacuum line to the intake and everything.
That's what happen to mine bad master leaked into booster ate it up so I get the idle up idle down type thing going on got to the point were it would kill the motor while breaking to a stop
Yea I went ahead and did both it was more of while I'm in there type thing didn't wanna have to bleed the breaks twice . I just got a booster online and a master cylinder from napa . I did notice after I took my load sensing valve off my pedal got spongy so I put it back on it was a tad bit better but still needed the boost and master
Ya mine was spongy as well when I took my lsv off but I bled the brakes even more so and I have steady brake pressure as I did b4 I took the lsv off. If there is any moisture in ur system it can cause a soft pedal feel. Brake fluid absorbs the moisture in the air like crazy. So any time I've had the cap off the master cylinder that fluid is taking in that moisture. So over time the moisture breaks down the brake fluid and can cause the soft pedal. I fought quite a few vehicles with this problem and most the time it's due to the fluid broken down due to moisture and not being flushed out with new periodically
