Hey guys,
I need some help asap. I am (trying) installing some new polished Lokar interior door handles with their pulley system and having some big trouble, heres the rundown so far:

1. removed everything to free up door panel and lift it up out of the way (going to just take it off tommoow)

2. removed factory door pull attached to rod

3. one end of cable goes into the threaded crevis held by setscrew which threads into the handle,other end goes through pulley (need to mount it) and the other end, attacheds by a "U" shaped piece with a rod and locking rings.

4. Trouble: I need to remove the factory rod from this "U" shaped piece behind the inside of the door, on the end with very limited space to get your hand in there, I don't see how I can attach the new piece to this "U" piece if it is in there?

5. Can you remove the door pull mechanism, 3 screws on the end of the door, lossens it but how does it come out or does it need to.

I took the plastic lock piece that the rod attaches to and holds it, fitted into the new hadnle hole thinking it could just replace the stock handle, got it attched and the door pull handle does not open wide enough to pull the factory rod and open the door, I am positive you have to use their pulley system. Its a universal system so it can't be that hard and I have seen many trucks with these handles. Heres are 2 pics of the handles and the puilley system.

If anyone has installed these and can help me out I would really appreciate it.

Thanks,
Pete

PS. Got the open Billet specialties open handle window cranks too, those will be be easy, I know a-lot of trucks have these cranks but I want them to match the steering wheel I am going to get next year and also match my wheels. I will post pics when its all installed

 

The pulley system pic to the right: That "U" shaped piece on the lower right hand corner I am talking about is factory, the plastic factory lock goes through the hole and the factory rod attches to that, the cable replaces the rod and a pin with locks replces the factory plastic clip lock.

 

The rod should come right off the plastic clip. You can remove the screws @ the door latch & pull it away from the end panel then its easier to remove the rod from that end!
I don't have those handles, but do use the pulleys on my suicide doors !

 

I got it figured out, I drilled a 1" access hole directly in front of the "U" shaped lock pull mechanism to the far left in pic, attached a piece of string, pull that piece forward and wrapped the other end around my window crank regulator and bingo instant access to remove the clip and rod and attach the end pulley piece, then cut and removed the string, stared at it for a while but got it figured out.

I've got Billet Specialty window cranks coming next week will post a pic when installed.

Let me know what you all think.

 

I had that Lokar pulley kit... Hated it, after 6 months I got rid of it

 

I used the kit & got some other pulleys very simpler from Ace hardware ,shower door/ brass, you just have to remove them from bracket. And they work very well.

 

Just an updated picture:

1. Changed their pulley to one I found at Ace Hardware thanks Truck Action and the construction Zone truck Victory is Dowd's 96 Hardbody in the new M/T'n pg 17.

2. Had to get a new cable from Summit. When you go to install this, you have to take out the slack cut the cable and test fit, if its not tight enough to open the door you have to cut again, after cutting the slightly melted end to keep it from freying (from the factory), it starts to frey on you, kind of difficult to get in that tiny hole when the ends are freyed! As you can see it is not hooked up, I am going to manually pull the cable to open the door and I got the ok from the wife to get my new door panels done in the near future, so it will all be hooked up at once and hopefully will never have to touch it again! Almost wish I would have just kept my stock handles, I am frustrated now but when it fixed I will be very happy.

3. Also got my new window cranks: Billet Specialties GM/Ford 49 and up 1/2" spline on window regulator part #46520

Heres a pic, let me know what you think.

 

Looks good. I liked those but they are a bit pricey. Did the window cranks fit the stock toyota splines or did you have to modify them. how much did you pay for the cranks?

 

Thanks a-lot.Yah they are $$$, but are they worth it? I get into trouble from looking at M/T'n and getting ideas according to my wife. Yeh, the window cranks fit, I know for sure 79/83 is a 1/2 spline, 16 teeth. I assume other years are probably the same, but I would measure first to be sure. The cranks fom Summit were I think $72.95.

 

That's not the pulley from Ace I was talking about,this is it

I made a stand off for one @ each door & one just mounts off the door panel .
What you have is going to have to much play( movement) & not work correctly!

 

In this photo the pulley that is on the stand off is not in place,I added it into the mix for better cable action!

 

Well now I'm confused, there seems to be a-lot of ways to make this work. From the pic I posted straight down to the right at 5pm you see a tiny hole (not sure how to do colored circles around the object I'm talkiing about), that is where the Lokar pulley (same one in your pic with your door panel off) was mounted, hooked up and it barely pulled the lock to open the door maybe it needs to be further away on the other side like yours.

I bought that same pulley at Ace, but it does not have a closed cap on top to keep the cable inside, hooked it up, took the slack out and the cable was not even on the pulley, nothing to hold it.

I was feeling good about this, we'll see what happens!

Thanks for the advice.

 

Another part of the problem I am having that I forgot to mention is that this new after market Lokar door handle only opens about 1/2 way or 45 degrees vs the stock handle that fully opens at 90degrees when you pull on it to open the door, (why this is designed like this I don't know?) which means that the other end of the cable attached to the inside door mechanism that pulls to open the door is only pullying 1/2 way and it need to come forward so far to open the lock to open the door. This falls in the area of taking enough slack out of the cable and putting tension on it.

This can't be that hard to make this work, I have seen several trucks with this same handle that are in the mags, finished, so they obviously work.

 

By running the cable away from the direction & then back, it creates more pull @ the latch mechanism. The 2nd pulley ( not shown) helps keep the cable tight.You must get the cable pretty tight!
My stock handles opens the door @ partial throw of them!

 

The door handle problem is fixed! The problem lied directly in the adjustment screw, this will loosen and tighten the cable by up to 1/2"

Also the handle does stick out and I have to manually push it back in, but it does not have tension on it anymore, pushed it in with very little effort and the reason for this is that the handle IS NOT spring loaded like the stock handle is, it is held in with a pin.

I'm happy now

Thanks for all the advice from everyone on this mod. I don't need to post a pic, it looks excatly like the the first one I posted except it actually works now. LOL