Its not hard bro...best way to do it is get the front of the truck up off the ground with jack stands. Next is to remove the tires, then I would suggest placing a jack under the lower arm that you want to take off first. Unbolt the sway bar bushing, the lower ball joint-(perfect time to flip them if you havent) next remove the stabalize bar from the arm-(not from the front frame of the truck), unbolt the lower mount of the front shock & last remove the torsion bar itself. If you have any problems or questions let me know & Ill talk you through it.
Okay, 30 minutes into this and I need help some one please call me and give me some tips. I don't know how to take out the torsion bars. 909-720-0710 Victor.
you dont have a ball joint puller do you? loads of fun trying to seperate them without one. they look like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015UWW1O you can pick one up at just about any parts store or sears. there are a couple sizes, i have both a small and a large one.
Just saw the post. You don't need a BJ puller you unbolt it from the lower control arm. To remove torsions: There is a bolt holding it in at the transmission crossmember. There are 2 nuts jammed together on top. Remove the top nut, then remove the other. As you remove the second nut the spring force will be released until it it gets really loose. Then just slide the torsion bar out of the "receiver" that bolts to the lower control arm.
I didn't have to take apart the torsion bars, just loosen it up and let the control arm hang. I'm not done. I still have to buy some new bolts and nuts. Stupid parts wouldn't line up and I ended up stripping a few bolts here and there. Hopefully I'll finish the passenger side tonight and start on the driver side.
I'm finally done. True, installation is a bitch. I still have to adjust the torsion bars for correct height and remove a leaf spring.
Glad to hear that you got them installed...sorry that you had so much trouble! When I installed mine it was pretty easy, but I will admit that when I was taking mine off this weekend it was a bitch lol!!
When I originally took off the bolts to the control arm, I noticed a green film on the bolts. For some reason I thought the Green threadlock gel was stronger than the Red. I was wrong...... So, you guys think all those bolts will be fine with just the Green stuff or should I unbolt everything and re-tighten with Red threadlock gel? Everything has been torqued to spec.
i know this is an old thread but i getting ready to do this and was wondering if you used your old control arm bushings or did you replace them? Also has anyone used poly bushings and how do those ride compared to the rubber ones? thanks
I love them!!!!! a bit of a pain .. but easy non the less when you get your new bushings they only come with the poly part not the matle bucket thet they go into so be sure not to take them out of the frame ... what I did was ... got my ball joint press and pressed out JUST the rubber and then cleaned the buckets up real good then that was it! good luck bro
thank you very much. also i read on another thread that you can combine drop spindles and drop controls arms. Is that true? and is there anything i look out for?
Hey guys, and I don't really want to high-jack this thread but my question is related. I also have 3" drop DJM control arms. I was wondering what kind of clearance issues will I have? What is also the purpose of reversing the lower ball joints?