OK i got all my $hit together . 77 spindles and hubs, ebay bling rice rotors ,and at least 50 horse power in red caliper paint.

here is a start.

 

What calipers i guna be using?

 

77 calipers.and it turns out there dual piston , i am sure thats standard,i'm just saying thats pretty cool for a little truck.toyota makes nice stuff

i was digging through ebay and found some one selling a rear window out of a late 70's truck so i asked about the front end ,and we struck a deal outside of ebay for 150 bucks both sides,from spindle to dust cap everything i needed in one shot .+ 32 bucks shipping . sounds good to me.

 

it turns out you need late 70's model lower ball joints also

 

you see i tried to just add washers to the bottom ball joint under the nut but that wont work, you have to get later model ones.

 

i used a total of 3 washers and it would not get tight. so keep it in mind when you do the swap. it need late 70's lower ball joints

you can see above the dust seals and correct brake hose part# needed also

 

this is definitely not just a easy bolt on swap, it is not that difficult, but there are a few surprises i was not expecting ,from what i was led to believe reading on-line is that wham bam grab some 75-78 spindles and slap them on and your good to go, and if you wanted to 79-84 or 8? something works fine to but you have to swap them driver to passenger side..
I am sure that the 80 something spindle swap is i much more pain in the ass swap then it sounds from what i have found doing the 75-78.

i recommend everyone with a 69-71 hilux put disc's on there truck ,because there awesome,and drums suck to maintain, but do your self a favor and get the 75-78.

you have to use 75-78 outer tie-rod ends i found out this morning 73 -78 is probably fine to,but who cares just get 77's.the 70 hilux has a smaller dia. taper, my napa and advance auto does not stock them, rockauto was the cheapest on-line and there on there way.

last week i discovered that the 70 lower ball joint has a smaller taper as well,so 77's were needed there also. they look identical mounting wise in pictures, but upon trying to install them last night i found the 3 mounting studs placement is slightly off. the 4rth mounting bolt hole underneath is fine though thank god,there is a blind nut in the lower control arm for it and that would of been a pain in the ass to alter.

also the top of the ball-joint where the grease zerk is on the 77's is larger then the 70,and does not fit through the hole for it in the control arm.

so what you have to do is elongate the outer two of the three stud holes up and inward,and waller out the center stud hole some too. i used a drill with a 5/16 bit and ran it up and down in the holes like a file so it just cut in the direction i wanted it to and my holes did not get to hogged out. but the center stud i just wallerd out in all directions a little bit.

the larger hole for the top of ball-joint itself ,needs to be elongated outboard,,,oval it out towards you. i used a large rat tail and it was very easy to do.

 

moderator please move this to the pre 75 section please. this was a mistake,and i dont want it here.

thanks

 

Great write up. I may be doing that swap in the near future. Great to know. Sounds like it's safe to grab as many parts around the suspension as possible. You also need to yank the Master Vac from the car too right?

 

i never even thought of the brake booster,

last year i put a 350 chevy in a 2 door isuzu trooper, i put four wheel disc's on it 3/4 ton GM stuff, i fitted a 1 ton GM master cylinder onto the stock isuzu booster with no problems braking.it stops like a SOB. i dont think boosters matter that much

i have the original brake booster in the hilux, with a land cruiser master cylinder. i had to rip the plastic reservoir off of it and tap the two holes 1/2" pipe ,

i screwed in two 90* plastic fittings with hose barbs on them so i can use the original remote reservoir , because the one it had on it would not fit under the air cleaner.

{its easy to tap you dont have to take it apart just put the tap in your vice and spin the master cyilider on the tap until it bottoms out}

the things upside down so all the crap falls out and doesent get inside, the threads are a little shallow but it's a tapered thread so it's not that big a deal, thats why i used nylon fittings though,they will squish and conform to the shallow tapper , i put a little JB weld on them before i screwed them in and it worked perfect and looks completely cool , i used weatherhead hose and fuel injection hose clamps for a nice old factory look, i did have to boil the tough 3/8 hose in water to slip it over the nipples on the reservoir.

also you know the little adjustable push rod inside the booster, i could not adjust it short enough for the new style master cylinder, what i had to do was just completely remove the adjustable tip from the push rod, then it was short enough and worked fine with my previous front drum /rear disc ,,,bass ackwards set up. once i get my new outer tie-rod ends we will see how it stops now with all wheel discs.

i have bought one inline 2 psi residual valve i can play with if i think it needs it later after i test drive it .

 

this thing stops now big time, and nice and even .no more pull from hard to adjust drums. IT WILL STOP YOU.its nice to yank a turn hard and nail the brakes with confidence

it does not need a residual valve at all, the pedal was firm rite from the start ,it needs no pumping to get a good pedal, this is with rear el dorado calipers. but it will need a proportioning valve, the ass locks up pretty good when you get hard into the brakes. maybe this is normal for a old non ABS truck with no load in the bed? i dont know. anyone have any advice on this?

who moderates this forum? i realy want this moved, i have sent several PM's lets move this thing

 

You should only need a residual pressure valve if the calipers are above your master cylinder.

You definitely need a proportioning valve when running discs in the rear. I ran one on my blue truck and the brakes worked great. I once opened up the valve to bleed the brakes (was taking too long with it adjusted), and forgot to set it back when I was done. First hard stop and the rear locked up quick.