Ok, finally have the time to post up some pics of my "cleaned" engine bay... This was before, just after my bagging experience. I did some research and exploring into the complexities of all of the EPA required crap sitting on top of my engine like pigeon poop. Turns out that only one of the valves there are at all useful. That would be the A/C throttle kick up, which is optional.
im anxious to see this .... mine looks just like your b4... and im like you and think it looks like poop.
This is after. With all of the EPA poop gone. Looks better, runs better (which leads me to believe that one of the valves may have been stuck). Side views. Included is a shot of the new location for the power steering reservoir. The high pressure line will get replaced soon with a shorter line. Here you can see what has been done with all of the vacuum ports. About $6 worth of plugs takes care of everything.
Pic of the power steering kick up valve (at least I think that is what it is for.) It was plumbed bypassing the A/C kick up regulator so I think it may keep the engine from stalling out if the load becomes too great at idle. I don't think I'll have that problem. New and temp vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. I will reroute this soon. This is needed to dump excess fuel pressure back to the tank at idle. And last but not least, removal of the EGR and AS. The Air Suction reed valve setup was below the intake and fed intake air into the exhaust manifold to aid in the breakdown of BLAH, BLAH, BLAH....... And we all know about the EGR. A set of block off plates from LC and WOW! It's really gone!
I have since re installed the A/C kick up valve, will post a pic or two soon. I found that for whatever reason, the compressor clutch would not engage at idle. To get it to engage, I had to give it just a touch of throttle, then, let it idle again. Not worth it to me, so I tucked it below the harness on the inside of the intake manifold.
I just started tracking stuff down and learning about what each component did. Put them all together, and started removing stuff I didn't need.
Oh, and check to see which version of the environmental stuff you've got, because in my Chilton's manual there were like eleventy-two of them. I'm starting to like Canada over California.
in n.c. only 96 and up have to pass... that looks so much cleaner ima have to start rippn **** out... haha
since you are in a "free" state you can up your ignition timing to 10* BTDC to get better snap on the throttle. Another one of those pesky emmision standards.
I think for your engine you need to put a jumper wire between t1 and TE1 in the little diag port thats left in your engine bay. It was by your passenger wheel well. That sets the computer to base timing ( no computer controlled advance ) then you can set your base timing to 10*btdc and remove the jumper when you are done. Im like 90% sure those are the pins. lol. And if you already knew this sorry for telling ya again.
^^^plugs can be purchased from your local parts store...they use it as vacuum caps for carbed motors and all the good stuff..theres diffferent sizes for different holes and stuff.. litneon- good job man looks really great. one question. all your wires that were running along your fenders(underneath the fender lip) where did you relocate them too if you have pics? i kept mine under there with the whole inner fender removed and my tires keep smashing my wires and causing them to cut sometimes and it fckn sucks...
There is a small knob behind your glove box. Look around the fan motor area, It should have "RPM" on it. Adjust this knob if you want your AC comp to engage at a lower idle and then you can disconnect your idle up AC VSV again.
That, sir, is a badass trick. Even though I don't have an efi truck, I take mental notes of things like this.
Yeah, always helpful to pay attention. Never know when the tips and tricks might come in handy for a friend.