i know i know, use the search. i've been reading about how to proceed with "engine running ruff" condition, n pretty much i have to check EVERYTHING. shet man. so i tried to do a little tune up. truck was running fine. -cleaned throttle body + idle screw passage, new EAF. ran slightly ruff due to DECARB chemical i ran through the engine. after a few minutes of high idle, it returned to normal and was good. -decided to check/set timing (cuz i seen the distributor was set all the way "ADVANCED"). -----is this correct ---- distributor turned all the way clockwise = ADVANCE -----when turned all the way counter = RETARDED ??? anyways, timed it as best -ended up about 12deg BTDC. -is the best i can get it at. i had a buddy double check my work (crank to 0deg TDC, jump terminals, and set distributor to #1) -is ok, as best. drove it for a little n i noticed started to run ruff. so i decided to mess with timing again, now its way off n way worse. i tried to get it back to where i had originally set it, but still runs ruff. i changed spark plugs -from DELCO (fouled) to now running DENSO.. so now its running like crap. i may have to check the compression n the valve adjustment. Overall I feel like i screwd myself over by trying to fuss with it. now im in a bigger hole. *** bottom line, it was running fine till i messed w it. FLM*** also, just ordered the LCE Dual Timing Chain conversion kit. hope this helps, i know engine needs it cuz i hear it slapping the cover. any thoughts or suggestions......?
First don't bother trying to tune the motor before the timing chain has been replaced if you can here the chain jumping and scraping around .there could be a chance ur chain is two slacked or jumped a tooth throwing your timing and tuning time u spent off ...replace that stuff with your new kit tdc the motor to specs take your time make sure you get your distributer back on number one firing postion upon reinstall . Keep your head up she may be to mechanically out of time for you to make an adjustment that will work well until you get the new stuff in keep us updated
Ya I agree with scrub88 chain might have enough slack to jump. It could possibly eat thru the timming cover and dump oil so you might want to find a new cover also and do that one shot.
cool thanks chelutas. but i have a question --- my homie -been working for toyota dealership 10+ years, n has done many a timing chain/tune job - says to set timing, crank must be at 0deg TDC. but i read somewhere (even in the repair manual) that setting crank for CARB engines is at 0deg .... n setting crank for EFI engines is at 5deg BTDC. so wat do i follow?
n yes i figured that the tooth jumped or something. timing chain kit is already in the works. check out my build page for more info, n if i will be needing anything else pls let me know. this is my first 22r "build". i've worked on them before but never this in-depth. also, my buddy told me (n i also read on LCE i think) -to fit the dual chain, i must removed the little oil baffle inside the valve cover. YouTube = Champion win stuff!! http://www.toyotaminis.com/forum/introduce-yourself-3/new-member-rookie-14554/#post158352
Mine runs best at six degrees advanced with my weber and other mods .my friends totally stock he runs his at zero .. Just rember when doing your timing unhook the two vacuum lines going to the distributer and plug the lines .then adjust your timing .i would shoot for zero for now or a tad above it u wont feel much difference .when u start modifying the motor you might wanna play around with it to see we're it feels best at And YouTube can be a great info and helper tool
