ok so i measured the drive shaft measurements on the black widow and i have 2 different length's when it is down i have 59 7/8 and when it is up its 61 1/4 my question is how long should the drive shaft be this is kinda holding me up from getting this truck road worthy any help would be much appreciated thanks

 

both

The drive shaft is splined in the middle and slides in and out for this exact purpose

 

so should it be the long measurement or in the middle sorry i really don't know much about drive shafts and also its going from the c4 transmission to the toyota rear end

 

Not too much knowledge myself either

I learned this when I took off my drive shaft to have the U joints replaced on my 4runner. I also learned that since its splined and slides out all the way, be careful when taking it apart... its balanced.

never measured it either but judging by your numbers, since the one end slides into the other, the total length of the two pieces combined should be longer than 61 1/4 and when completely compressed should be shorter than 59 7/8. Makes sense?

 

when you call the driveshaft shop just expain that it's bagged and they should know what to do . similar to doing a flexy 4x4.

and you should just have to tell em what trans and rearend you have and they can make it happen.

 

yeah these people i have talked to in iowa don't know nothing there like what do you mean bagged lol there is one shop that said to bring in both ends one from the transmission and the driveshaft that mounts to the rearend since it use to have the 2 piece with the carrier bearing and they said i should go with a one piece.

 

I think if you go one piece you'll have to notch into the cab more. I think you can get a slip yoke? Where it slides in when down an out when aird up

 

so i called one shop and he said i need to drill out my transmission tail shaft so the yoke can be stationary does this make sense? He told me to call him back tomorrow and he will explain it more im lost

 

???? Drilling out tranny?? WOW Im lost too. I know I dont have a swap like you but since i have soo much lift in the rear at full lock I mash mashin my driveline into my tranny. With the truck lowered the driveline is parallel with the body when you lift it the driveline stays paralell with the ground but the body (along with tanny raises making it necessary for the shaft to be longer (where you are getting your measurements from!!

I had to have my driveline SHORTENED 1 1/8 inches so when its locked up its not mashing the tranny seal into the output shaft. However since the spline section is soo long I still have over 4 inches of spline into the tailshaft when its laid out so no worries about it falling out.

Unfortunatly it sounds like all the driveline shops in your area are retarded, maybe try outsourcing the work! Jims drivetrain in Boise Idaho is the best and he's been around for eons. Got mine cut, shortnened, rewelded, balanced, got a groove out from hitting my old crossmember rollin cali, new U joints, and painted for $500 woulda been cheaper without the paint and fixing the groove. I know that sounds like a lot of money but this thing is now legit and bullit proof

 

me and my buddy measured it up and down and that was the 2 measurements i got so i dont know

 

Hopefully you can find a shop that knows what they are doing.

 

this is the place i've been talking to FastShafts.com :: Fast Shafts by Axle Exchange, Inc.

 

Im gonna give dennys driveshaft a call tomorrow to see what they say

 

just got done ordering my driveshaft i ordered from driveshaft specialists there out of texas and its gonna be a piece all aluminum shaft only 475 with shipping and the guy was really nice he made sure i got all the right measurements for it.

 

Sweet deal man hopefully it works real well for you. I just got mine back today as well so crossing my fingers and hoping for the best!