I't been awhile but my wife was driving the truck and the temp gauge spiked, started smoking, and engine died. Long story short, the small hose under the intake broke and lost all the coolant. Truck still runs but it is ruff. Going to pull and start taking apart. Going for a complete rebuild or just gaskets but I want to install a cam while I'm in there. I heard engnbldr is the place to go and I'm thinking about the 261 cam. Is anyone here running his stuff? Wife wants a V8 swap but the 22RE is all I need to my fishing machine.
blah, no engine builder cams, go to comp cams, they have a cam for you! COMP Cams: Toyota Good luck with pickin up a cam! or you could always buy one from LCE
Order a full gasket set, timing chain kit, oil pump, and new head bolts. Hope I don't run into any issues, first time working on a 22RE- done plenty of 3TC's. Pulling the engine and trans to do a full check-up and fix the leaking rear seal.
Pulled the engine/trans yesterday without any issues and started the teardown. So far I also need a new flywheel and clutch kit but no other issues other than one broke bolt that I will need to remove. Can I remove all the vacuum lines and use plugs? I have read several things but no go walkthrough.
Im in tampa, if you need any help hit me up, Ive got tons of parts, I also have a chevy v8 running if you want to do the swap, its the 4.3 v8.. not a v6 vortec... its in a 1995 caprice with 105k miles right now.
Got the gasket set Friday and starting to work on the engine. Does the heater bypass tube mount to anything? It bolts to the back of the water pump and on bolt on the block but it looks like something bolt to it? Anyone know a good shop to bring the head for cleaning and resurfacing in the Orlando/Cocoa area?
I didn't think I removed it from something- trying to everything together. I wish the gasket kit came with ID's, not sure what some of them are for
Most gasket sets come with gaskets to cover both carbed and EFI for multiple years, so you normally end up with extras
theres a great head shop in orlando, I forgot the name though lol. maybe like national heads ? or usa or something similar
The 261 crawler cam from engnbldr is a good midrange cam. I put one in the engine my wife just put in her truck and it works really well. It certainly helped my big truck when I was pushing 42" tires with that poor 22re. That bracket doesn't go to anything, I have never figured out WTF they put it on there for either. I rip the vacuum lines off of RE's all the time. All you need hooked up is the fuel pressure regulator, the charcoal canister, brake booster and PCV. Makes it soooooo much nicer to work on the engine when all that crap isn't there. Most of it is just for idle mixture and whatnot. Funny I've never had one not start just fine in sub zero temps all the way over 110*.
There really isn't much to post. On the upper intake there is a fitting with 3 vacuum line ports. I just hook the regulator and charcoal canister to that and pull the rest and cap them. No need to mess with anything else. On the later trucks there is a breather coming off the air box to the underside of the lower intake going to the egr if I remember right. I pull all that crap off too. We always pull the egr stuff to save a bit of weight and unclutter the engine bay.
Dropped off the head at National Cylinder Head Exchange- $198 and he said it would be as good as new and all cleaned up. When I took out the cam I noticed that the caps were marked with letters, numbers, and arrows. #1 and #3 had the arrow facing the front and #2 was facing the rear. Is it possible that the last person misstamped the caps although the factory letters were are oppisite sides.
So I guess the last person installed on backwards.Will I will need to install it the same way I took it out or can I turn it around?
Normally yes, you would turn it around correctly to avoid confusion down the road or to another owner or mechanic. But!! I think I would carefully examine the condition of the cam journal, the cap and head itself, fit the cap on both ways and examine the mating surfaces to make sure its a nice smooth circle, run a machinist straight edge in the saddles to confirm the head is straight and check the cam journal bearing clearances very close and make sure the cam spins freely with no binding. If in doubt have a shop line bore the cam bearings if the rest of the head is worthy.
Got a call from the shop and they have to weld a couple of water passages and the head will need a shim. Last person used two headgaskets and a shim between them- seems like a old school Corolla way to do things. Just want to know the proper way to install a shim. From what I have read I should apply some copper sealant to the block, then the shim, gasket ontop of the shim, followed by the head last.
Best to follow the directions for the particular shim/gasket combo you use, but if I remember correctly the felpro headsaver shim used a sealer between the block and shim only, then the head gasket on top of that with no sealer. just as you stated above. Never want to use any type of sealer on the head gaskets on the Toyota 20/22R