I extended it downwards using a metal bracket that I've found. Now the tup of bar is only 3" off the ground...but I still get screeching noises from the rear whenever I brake. I'm thinking the rear brakes are still putting out too much pressure. How did you have yours adjusted? I tried to bend that mofo but it wont bend.
BPV? psh mines been T'd off forever I have full rear brake power lol. 99 tacoma btw. soudns like your drums need some work on them if they've never been repalced.
I just checked the pads two weeks ago and it looked fine. I've attached some pictures I took with my phone. Do I have it angled enough?
The screeching noise, are your brakes in the rear locking up? It is most likely not your brake pads or rotors. Did you compare before and after heights of the LSPV lever? I'm guessing that you have, it looks close to where it should be. I would try it in a few more extreme places (all down, even all up) and see if you notice any change. It's not a great idea to just "T" the line and delete the LSPV without the use of a proportioning valve. With the rear drums getting full pressure, it is easy to lock up the rears, especially in a panic stop. Once the rears lock up, you will probably slide with the addition of any avoidance maneuver. I've done a few of these and never had a truck with rear drums respond well to full hydraulic pressure. While it will work, it just isn't "safe".
My understanding, is the further this rod lifts up, the less braking power applied to the drum brakes, therefore minimizing locking them up or wearing the pads out double fast. The further down the more power applied to brakes. If ya wanna do a feild test: Jack the truck frame up and put on jackstands so the rear tires are totally off the ground, then place a floorjack under the rear pumpkin and test braking throughtout different axle heights ( with bracket in stock postion ), I did this with mine and when I notched & bagged mine, I removed all but 2" of the rod and moved it to the top part of the notch and tightened it down when I found the SWEET SPOT, the idea of a tee was just not appealing to me, and best thing of all, I can change it out to a porportionating valve later. All in all mine works, cost me nothing and since I dont haul anything, the braking power is the same throughout the axle ranging. What you got going on scares me, I see Mcnasty bags and trolls getting hung up in that layout! Do the test itll solve your curiousity and learn a new trick man . . . Goodluck. . .
Hey Phatmitzu, have you figured out the LPSV stuff yet? i thought it was down means less because when you add load, it will go up and add more brake power.
ya i think that was a typo. as the rod moves up it opens a spring loaded valve to allow more fluid flow to the rear. it looks like your geometry is off, the rod looks alot lower then it should be. ive never adjusted one before, so my best guess is to just relocate the whole original brack lower equal to the drop. that would keep the geometry right.
lspv I believe wilwood has an adjustable valve. It is quite suitable for lowering situations like this one. (if you don't already know)
holy crap dude........ if im being honest, that looks real scary to drive the way you got it set up there.... you should just be able to flip the rod pivot upside down and let it pivot that way..... im not sure where in socal you are at but if you cruised down to san diego anytime soon i could help you set that up correctly.