Air management issue question...

Discussion in 'Suspension/Chassis' started by Under Construction '93, Jul 29, 2011.

  1. Under Construction '93

    Under Construction '93 Addict

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    Turns out my rear bags air up way too fast and the rear hops on one quick flick of the switch. Was cool at first then just got annoying...

    I bought some "T" flow controlls to slow it down, but now the back airs up all crooked no matter how i adjust the flows. There was no flow arrow on them so I tried both ways and they still act funny. :confused:

    The guy who sold me the valves suggested that I just run 1/4' line to the rear and that would be my cheapest bet. Seems like a good idea.

    My question is that I dont have shocks on the rear just yet and if I get the speed up where I want it will the shocks affect the up and down speed? Or is it enough weight that it won't matter? Has anybody else had the problem of too fast? :shrug:

    I'm going to buy some shocks this weekend and start getting the mounts built and whatnot hopefully next week. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
     
  2. Litneon

    Litneon Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Yeah, about that. What pressure are you running in the tank? And what size valves are you running? I also have this issue. I've got 1/2" valves, line and 200 psi. My switches are the rocker style and allow me to just twitch them. That controls the rear fill Ok, but I still want to be slower. The problem with flow controls is that if they are not the screw in needle style, they will be very tough to dial in.

    I am going to machine a set of plugs to silver solder into a regular brass fitting. I will then be able to drill a hole in the plugs so that they are all the same. I'll let you know what I find out.
     
  3. Under Construction '93

    Under Construction '93 Addict

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    Im only running 150psi tank pressure. I put my 200psi switch in once and it was INSANE. Front would hop as well. I have the GC Extreme 250 1/2 valves. Seth was saying they have like a 3/4' orfice inside so they are way fast. And my flow controlls are the screw in type. But its weird because ill flick the switch up real quick but the air will trickle in even after the valve should be closed. And its always lower on the driver side even when im not in it. I could post a vid. It doesen't make sense to me.
     
  4. Litneon

    Litneon Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Ok, I had this issue too. Only occasionally though. Have you had the valves apart? They don't work anything like I thought they would. I won't go into how they work just yet, it's hard for me to describe.
    Take the fill and dump valves apart and swap the entire valve assembly (not the brass bodies) just the actual valve and plunger parts. Chances are that not all of the valves will do this and it won't hurt for the dumps to have that problem. In fact because of the greater pressure differential, the they probably won't do it in that location anyway.
     
  5. Under Construction '93

    Under Construction '93 Addict

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    My valves are the right way pressure wise. The flow controlls are what i was talking about being directional... It aired up even everytime before i put the flow controlls in...
     
  6. Litneon

    Litneon Super Moderator Staff Member

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    No, I wasn't questioning if the valves were backwards, that'd be obvious. If you'd had them apart it'd be a lot easier to explain where the problem could be because of the way that they work. That is, if they were the problem.

    So, silly question, but are the flow controls between the tank and the fill valves?

    So, somehow the flow controls are causing the diaphragms to equalize and close unevenly. If the pressure in front of and after the valve aren't enough of a differential, it will "hang up" until it finally takes it's good old time and seats, closing it off.

    Have you tried opening them all the way? Does it still do it? If not, then work them closed slowly testing it each time you make a small adjustment. Hopefully they will do the job.
     
  7. Under Construction '93

    Under Construction '93 Addict

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    Yes flows are in between tank and valves. Havent opened them all the way (flows) but pretty close. I will play with them some more tomorrow. If not I'm gonna just do 1/4' line. Lots of dumb little probs with bags so far... I'm a perfectionist so this is driving me nuts...LOL Thanks for the help.
     
  8. TRUCK ACTION

    TRUCK ACTION Grand Toyotaholic

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    You running 8 valves or 4 with a tee's?:cool:
     
  9. Under Construction '93

    Under Construction '93 Addict

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  10. yota4life

    yota4life Grand Toyotaholic

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    That's crazy man mine doesn't do that at all. Maybe drop your line to 3/8" if not 1/4". That's what my brother had and it was super slow airin up. With rocker switches you can barely flick it up. I run 3/8" valves with 1/2" line it's quick but not like yours
     
  11. Under Construction '93

    Under Construction '93 Addict

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    Ill post up a vid or 2 tomorrow. I'm thinking 1/4' will probably be best for me. Before when i would be driving low and try to air up a little for railroad tracks or something the rear would hop and get squirrely on me... Not quite safe. I thought I wanted a fast setup, but now that I have a bagged truck fast isint that important to me.I wish I would've just bought 3/8 stuff... You live, you learn.
     
  12. yota4life

    yota4life Grand Toyotaholic

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    Ya man fast is over rated when I body mine I'll slow it down for airing out lifting I only run like 120psi then after I lift it I'll hold 170psi. Cause I can fully lift my truck to beyond ride height with 120psi. Ever think of dropping your tank psi?
     
  13. Litneon

    Litneon Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Seriously though, even 3/8" isn't a lot slower. To slow my dumps, I've installed brass plugs with a 1/8" hole drilled in each of them. I tried 1/4" holes first and they were still to big.
     
  14. Under Construction '93

    Under Construction '93 Addict

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    Tank pressure is only 150. I could drop it more i suppose. Yea lit, i have all 4 of my dumps 1/8' hole brass plugs. Wish I just used 3/8 valves 10mm orfice. I keep spending more money trying to slow it down...lol
     
  15. Under Construction '93

    Under Construction '93 Addict

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    So I got all of my 1/4' stuff for the rear to slow it down and I'm still having the same F******! problem. It sounds like the up valves are fluttering so they don't seat right away. I'm starting to suspect these valves as being the culprits here. Ever since I tried to decrease the flow to the ups in the rear I've been having these problems...Guess I'm going to buy 2 new ups for the back... More $$$ wasted... :mad: :mad: :mad:
     
  16. yota4life

    yota4life Grand Toyotaholic

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    What if you switch the ups with the downs?
     
  17. Under Construction '93

    Under Construction '93 Addict

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    Don't think it will make any difference considering I have 8 of the same valves...
     
  18. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    Well switching a the leaky dump valve to be the fill valve would make a difference. Just think you would be better off nOt messing with them like that and just replace or repair if possible
     
  19. Litneon

    Litneon Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Did you ever get the shocks on? I have shocks on my rear setup and even at 200 psi and no flow controls, it doesn't do anything interesting or scary at speed. The rear still fills very quickly, but I don't feel like I'm going to lose control of the vehicle.
     
  20. RosamondMini

    RosamondMini Enthusiast

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    I'm running 1/2 inch lines all the way around with no shocks. My truck will literally get off the ground in the front. Everyone I talk to say to put shocks on and it should cure the problem. It's pretty annoying most of the time but I get so many looks doing it haha.
     

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