Ok...here is what I did to remove the rear proportioning valve on my 91 2wd extra-cab truck. Most of you know that the late models...88 & lower came with a standard proportioning valve, but it was located under the master cylinder. So unless your planning to haul crap or whatever in the rear then you wont need it. The only part I bought was a $1.00 1/8 npt hex head plug from Advance Auto Parts. Youll have to bleed the brakes again so be sure to have some brake fluid as well. So on to the pics... Here is what it looked like on the truck... This the t-unit located on the passenger side frame rail near the front tire... I removed the high pressure line from the t-fitten & capped it with the 1/8 hex plug. If you notice that there are 2 lines running to the rear valve, your plugging the high pressure side & keeping the low pressure side. The high pressure is for the front brakes just incase you were wondering....- So I got the high pressure line plugged & then you can follow both lines to the rear & unhook the high pressure first, then take it off like I did. After you get the high pressure line removed or pulled out of place unhook the low pressure line from the rear valve & hook it to the rubber brake hose that is hooked the the t-fitten on the rear axle pictured below... So this is what I did to remove the rear valve...Ive bleed the brakes & have a firm brake pedal. I have not driven the truck yet, but will be doing so soon...got to finish the bag job first lol. I have done this on a buddys truck & his 93 model Toyota is doing just fine. Here is an exact quote off streetsourcemag.com from a buddy of mine who has done several of these trucks without any problems as well too. "Here's what you do. Since the valve takes the greater pressure from the front brake circut and over-powers the weaker rear circut, just cap the line at the tee. The tee is located on the pass side front on the frame about where the firewall comes down. It's a 1/4 or 1/8" npt plug is all you need. You can then just trace the now unused brake line back to the valve and remove all of it. It cleans the rear up quite nice IMO. When the truck is unloaded, the valve closes off the higher pressures of the front brake circut. Only using the low press circut off the master cyl. When there is a larger load (bricks, fridge, illegals) the rear tires can accept more braking force without locking up. Since most of us dont put heavy loads in the beds anymore, you dont have to fell bad about taking it off."
I spelled proportioning wrong lol...sorry about that!! If one of the site moderators wants to edit that for me then please do so!
Ive seen several Toyota's bagged in the rear & they used the factory brake hose, but if its not then Ill just have one made at a local hydraulic shop or any auto parts store like Napa can make them too.
The LSPV is not FOR hauling a load, it is to lower the pressure to the drums when you AREN'T hauling a load. Panic stop in the rain, and you are liable to slide around a bit. A manual unit from Summit is around $30 or so. Just something to think about....
Just to clear a few questions that Im sure some of you have then click on the link below...its a thread on streetsource about this same mod. Read & then decide on how you would do this mod. Ive done this before so I know it works, but if you feel safer buying a manual unit from Summit or someone else then thats your call. http://www.streetsource.com/forum/topic.aspx?topic_id=104289&page=1
What are you gonna do when you get a bigger notch? Since the hardline goes a little past the rear axle?
i relocated mine the the frame rail just under the passenger seat.....i figured it's there for a reason, so might as well use it....wasnt too difficult since i had my cab off...I know that plugging it or throwing in a "t" fitting will work as an inexpensive substitute, but the rear wheels WILL lock up in the rain under hard braking...
SD, What would be the reason for adjusting it, isnt this mod to clean up the clutter. Im a bit confused, could you elaborate, sorry
i actually came across this while looking for a solution to the one placed in my 4wd 4runner. this is what the lifted guys use after the lift reaches a limit that the stock bar cant go past........ they just cut the bar a few inches from the valve and they place this thing on there. its a cheaper and easier alternative to setting up the rear valving instead of buying a $40 fancy one from summit and needing to replumb the front lines to use it. adjust it and set it once...... your truck will never know the difference. cleans up the rear axle and solves the touchy brake situation.
as far as i know the place that used to sell these went out of business a while back. these are not very hard to make. a sperical rod end much like you find at any offroad supply shop or such will have that rod. then the bracket is fairly easy to conger up. i could probably make a few and offer them....
Alex I have plans on making one these weird BPV adjusters. I'll make it soon and post a pic. I'm sure there a couple people that would be interested in one since you'd be able to set the rear brakes up with however much pressure you want. Stay tuned, product and pic coming.... btw, my valve got thrown in the thrash when I c-notched my Tacoma because they are in the way on those trucks, unlike 95's and earlier. I used to use a special plug I have available and plug the T on the frame up front and remove 1 of the 2 lines that run back to the valve, then connect the rubber flex line on the axle to the other line in the frame rail, easy. I don't remove them anymore on guy's Tacoma's, I simply pull them out of the way. You early Yota guys have it easy with your endless supply of static parts and BPV already behind the axle.