Parts you need off the explorer:

1. Complete rotor-to-rotors Ford 8.8 rear end out of a 94-01 Ford explorer (stock form recommended with disc and 3.73 posi, look for tag bolted on cover. some were equipped with drums and different gearing) Stock sway bar not needed.

2. 4 U-bolts and 8 nuts

3. Lower shock/leaf spring plate (2 total, one each side

4. all brakes line attached

5. rear flange of driveshaft that bolts to the rear end

6. 10 lug nuts


These rear end bolt right up to the stock placement on the leaf springs. I know I couldnt believe it either.

Be sure you have a wheel size minimum of 16 inches, anything smaller will rub and hit the calipers. Not sure though on drums as mine are discs and im certain that my stock 14's didnt work and the 16's did but the 15's may cut close.

If you dont have Ford wheels and you use stock 16 inch steelies from a foriegn car, the centerline hub is larger on the 8.8 and you will need to grind the hole bigger on the steelies to make it fit.

I grinded off about 1/16" with a die grinder. just grind consistantly in a circle and test fit as you go till it fits.


Only real "modifying" that had to be done on the car was the fuel tank, it does need to be banged in with a hammer as the new rear end flange hits. Just gently take your time and use a 5lb hammer or big heavy weight mallot and work it slowly. Dont get to carried away and take big swings as you might puncture your tank and be in real trouble. I hammered the back-driver side of the tank about 12" in length and now have no clearence issues and no rubbing without removing the stock gas tank



And the spare tire fits with no worries there. Also if you are running the stock 22r or 22re motor, your stock exhaust should still clear without a problem. only thing i'd watch for is the sway bar bracket.


the stock shocks will bolt up but not exactly how they are suppose to. Luckily our trucks have pretty light rear shocks so this is how I mounted them and work fine. just be sure to have the right size bolt, washers, and lock washers. I also twisted the tab a bit to match the angle of the shock.


Next you need to flip your caliper brake lines meaning unbolt them and switch the sides because the main line going to your proportion valve is on the driver side and the ford 8.8 is on the driver side. They will bolt up no problem. Now when you do this the brackets holding them on will be too far to reach there mounting location but are on center. Just space it 1" with either washers or a solid spacer and get a longer bolt.


Next you need to connect the main brake line to your proportioning valve. You will need to buy a metric 3/16 brake line and a standard 3/16 brake line because you are converting foriegn to a domestic and the threads are different. You will need a Brake flare tool and a tube cutter that you can buy at your local parts store. Cut both line on one end so you can remove the fittings. Switch the fittings once cut so you now have mismatched brake line, install your fittings and flare your end. Not needed but makes for a cleaner look is a tube bender. bend at a 90 degree angle once finished and you should have somthing like this.


Heres a aded pic showing fitment on the leaf springs. If you cant or dont have the stock u-bolts dont worry, Napa auto parts had them on the shelf. THe dimensions are 7/16 x 3 1/4 x 7 1/2. One shown in pic as I was one of those guys that didnt have them all

Before doing the install I recommend fully draining the old oil and replacing the gasket on the differential housing and replace the pinion seal to make sure you dont have to do it later as its easier with the rear end out of the truck to get these things done.

Once installed bleed your brakes, I used dot 4 but you can use dot 3 brake fluid. use the recommended sythetic gear oil and dont forget the posi additive as you will now have posi

When you go to get your drivshaft made if you have a powerful engine set-up get the drivshaft made with a 3.5 inch shaft because after a few hot runs your driveshaft will start looking like a jump rope and fall out of balance. I recommend getting that way no matter what so you never have this issue.

Another thing need to install is the proportioning valve lever that bolts onto the rear end. this MUST be installed otherwise your rear brakes will not work right and either lockup or not brake enough. I unbolted the bracket from the stocker and welded it in the same height as the stock location was meant. And this will still leave you able to unbolt that lever.

If theres anything I missed or have any questions feel free to ask.

Rodney

 

I am about to go pickup my 8.8 3:73 posi ford rear so thanks for the write up!

I am wondering how much it is wider when it really is on the truck? what wheels and tire size are you running?

I have read you can swap out the short side from another axle and replace the long side to shorten the overall width and center the diff.
best I could figure that would make the axle go from 59 3/8 to 57 1/2
our stock rear is 57... I could use about 1/4 wider each side but 2+ more inches won't work with my rims

 

its about 1/2 - 1" wider. Im running 215/55/16

 

Thanks, im going to pick on up also just because of all the cash 4 clunker cars... Probably not going to use it for a long time but good to know its relativly easy compared to some other stuff Id like to do. Might have to get it shortened for a 73 though, or just different offset wheels. I am not sure how narrow they are compared to the new toyota trucks. The information is out there im sure im just lazy right now.

 

I am sure it is out there but for me it was like finding that pervebial needle in a haystack... too much conflicting info on the net...
after much research the general opinion on my stock axle was 57... which I have actually confirmed.

the 8.8 ford is listed all over as 59 and 3/8 inches which pushes each side out 1 and 3/16 inches or about 30-31 mm a side.... thats a big offset added to a stock offset... now here is another one I couldn't get a straight answer on, stock offset.... is it 25 or 38mm as I have read both
either way that would put you near a 60-70mm offset which I have only seen that high on vette rims...
I use 9 inch wide 24mm offset wheels.... and they have a little room on the outside and NONE on the inside... they actually rub the frame now occasionally, so I would like to push them out a little but I can't clear another 30mm

should be a little more than an 1"... unfortunately I am running 275/40/17's and don't have that kinda room...

question??
Why did you use the ford spring plates and not just use the stock toyota ones
was it due to the axle tube width?

and dude please take more pics!!!



and here is a question for anyone....
why the hell is our own differential offset towards the gas tank/pass side?
I don't get this diff offset on our toys or the ford(although with the ford I figured the exploder is a pos anyway so no surprise) gotta appreciate the cheap axles though!!
anyway why is the toyota axle offset... traction with an open carrier? is the only thing I would think it affects or helps

 

I didnt use the toyota ones because of the axle width, that correct. the ford width is wider then the stock toyota. just made it much easier for the install. the stock toyota ubolts had no chance of fitting over the 8.8.

The ford 8.8 center is offset over and inch more to the passenger side to where I had to pound in the gas tank, no way around it there.

What other pics would you like?? its a real simple install.

 

Thanks for the write up! i'm actually looking for a GT 8.8 rear end to go in my 86 yota because i'm putting either a 350 or 383 stroker in it and need to beef up the rear.

 

Your welcome. Just remember that there are different styles of Ford 8.8's. Ones with perches for the leaf springs and other that are made for coilovers. So just make sure you get the correct one for your application.

 

Hey, this looks like just the solution I need for my rear axle ratio / LSD requirement.

Just 1 thought, I would imagine that if the side shafts are removed, one could have the boss in the center machined down to be a "proper" fit in a standard wheel. That way one avoids the need to do any changes to a standard wheel rim. I think this is the route I will go. Having the shafts machined should not cost more than $70 for an hour of machining time.

This website has a lot of info on the ford 8.8 rear axle.

 

awesome swap but im gonna most likely be staying with the 22re.is there a lsd or posi diff i can throw in my axle instead of swaping out the whole thing?

 

Yep

 

Sure there is a few LSD and lockers for the stock rear... And it should only cost you about $200 more than the entire ford rear costs

 

sounds like i should go for the swap then. n+ i have plans for a 1jz, i just have to go supra power on this. all my car buddys r ls1 crazy n need a lesson on import performance

 

Any issues with brake proportioning? Is this swap done on an 89-the one in your signature? Any known difference in the earlier 79-83 rears?

I have 4x4 flares on a 2wd, but I am going for a pre-runner look and will be lifting it soon...Have/did you look into a Previa rear with a Supra LSD installed?

Probably too small for a 2JZ anyways, but not on a boosted 22RE.

 

I'm doing this same swap right now and I found a good source for the brake parts, since the backing plates, brake shoes and calipers are usually in a helluva state when you find your exchange axle:

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product.aspx?id=1229


The backing plates are hard to find except at the ford dealer and when you add up the price of the other parts, this is certainly cost effective too. They also have a lot of the small pieces of hardware:





http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product.aspx?id=1542

These bits together pretty much take care of all of the brake stuff on the axle and everything is brand new. No shipping core calipers back to get refunds etc.

In my case I am having the axle sandblasted and I will get the new backing plates sandblasted at the same time so that I can paint everything with zinc rich primer, followed by a 2 part epoxy top coat. I intend to only paint this thing 1 time... The factory paint is so crap that after 10 years, there was not a spot of it remaining anywhere on the axle. The rear cover for the 3rd member was rusted nearly all the way through and the brake backing plates were perforated.....

 

Thats about right for axles out east. lucky for mine it was cherry and didnt have to replace anything but the brake pads and turn the rotors. Let us know your experience on the Ford 8.8 after you drive it so others can have some brain knowledge

 

I know this is an old thread, but still good and i still refer to it! I had gotten a 8.8 rear end out of a 96 mustang Gt, rear end has been under the rear of my project build (see sig) for a few months now, but today is when i tried to put the bed on for the first time, using stock wheels, and No Go.. maybe on a stock suspension truck, but for my truck which i'm bagging, the wheel base is too wide, if you click on my sig i will have pics updated soon to add to this.

 

I think the 86's are also more narrow. How wide does the wheels stick out?

 

I found this INFO on the internet. Looks like the 8.8 is a better swap for the third gen pickup (89-95).

 

Good to see this has helped many. Thanks for the kind words guys