81 PickUp 22r will not idle

Discussion in 'Maintenance/Repair' started by davidg1228, Mar 20, 2015.

  1. davidg1228

    davidg1228 Member

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    Hey Folks,

    Well my beloved 81 pickup decided not to idle any more. Here are the symptoms so far.

    On first start, it goes through its warming cycle, rpm's go up for a few minutes, and then they it drops on its own or if i hit the peddle. Then it will die. It will start up right after but i have to maintain the gas peddle. I runs ok at high speed and not so well at lower speeds as I have to maintain the gad peddle. It does sputter a little bit. It was an intermittent problem but now it is just not idling at all.

    I looked around for some answers but I really can no locate my problem.

    HELP! :confused::D
     
  2. jrRuyb

    jrRuyb Newbie

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    Hey there, I feel your pain, as I experienced the same problem with my '80 20r. The way you describe it sounds exactly like the problem I was having and it came down to me replacing the carb. I tried rebuilding it, but it didnt work, so I bought a brand new Weber, slapped it in there, and it has never ran better. If thats not the source of the problem, then im not sure what else to suggest. All I know is that solved it for me. Hope this helps!
     
  3. 1lowSr5

    1lowSr5 Addict

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    Have you tried adjusting the idle screw? May have fallen out? Cheap try before spending a few bucks on a new carb.
     
  4. first80toyota

    first80toyota Addict

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    Also, if it doesn't respond to turning the adjuster screw all the way in or out, time do rebuild or replace the carb..
     
  5. YOguyDA

    YOguyDA Addict

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    I have had many problems with the stock carb on both my '81 and '86...So, i know of a few things to check/google for more info:

    Anti-diesel solenoid might not be functioning/getting power or ground(cutting off the idle circuit).
    AAP diaphragm might have a hole in it (allowing the vacuum line to suck in raw fuel/run rich).
    Choke pull off diaphragm might be bad (causing a vacuum leak).
    EGR valve stuck open(vacuum leak)
    Emissions control box <--SOB! I hate this thing! (Located on your pass side kick panel) Solder joints crack on the circuit board, causing loss of power or ground to various emissions circuits. Had issues with my anti-diesel solenoid on both of my trucks because of this box....Solenoid was good(lost ground on my '81/power on my '86). Fixed it with jumper wires on both trucks.
     
  6. YOguyDA

    YOguyDA Addict

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    Fill us in when/if you fix your problem.....So many people never update their "fixes". That's why you run into so many dead ends on this site! lol

    FYI, i'm running a weber at the moment....I wouldn't wimp out and go weber if your cheap, since you're problem is most likely an easy fix and i don't notice any "significant" power increases.

    I live in CA and have to smog, so i switch to my stock carb for smog....But last year i had issues a Toyota Guru couldn't even figure out! It was a little funny to see Marlin from "Marlin Crawler" working on my 2WD truck, haha. Good guy!.....So, im running the webber fulltime now.
     
  7. YOguyDA

    YOguyDA Addict

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    On a positive note....Braking and holding your throttle up at the same time is a good skill to have!

    My 22R carb problems prepped me for driving a integra with a blown head gasket for over a year ;)

    haha
     
  8. 90DailyDriven

    90DailyDriven Veteran

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    Thanks for the great info on this problem. I am going to check these because my 90 22R just started having these symptoms. 22R is getting swapped soon anyways but i want to fx it before i do.
    It is a good skill to have as you mentioned. Smashing on the brakes, clutch pedal, and all while barely revving the engine while trying to stop is not as easy as it sounds.
     
  9. davidg1228

    davidg1228 Member

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    Hey Guys thank you for all of the information. I was messing around with it the day before my first post and I found a few things that could make it act funny. So a little bit of background information; I bought the truck a few months ago and it was wrecked on the passenger side so as expected i found a few wires to be damaged. I taped them up and as a temporary fix. I will probably solder them at a later date to ensure proper connections. I will post some pics later on tonight after work or tomorrow morning when i get back to work.

    So I have a hunch that one of the 3 electrical components are bad. I was able to test the "Outer Vent Control Valve" by testing the resistance according to a manual I have: it said that it should read 63-73 ohms between the terminal and solenoid body , mine read a bit higher than 73 ohms but It was late and I was not sure if i was touching the correct terminal.

    I also tested the "Fuel Cut Solenoid" buy supplying power directly from the battery and I did hear a click but I would much rather take it out of the carb to ensure that it is actually moving in and out.

    Here is my plan, since this is my work truck and i need it to run right, I am planning on going through all of the components of the carb to ensure that everything is working correctly. I will keep you guys updated as I want to ensure that i find the problem before replacing or rebuilding the carb.

    On a side note, I am using a manual intended for a 83', do you think i would make a difference in the testing or the testing values (ohms) and such since mine is a 81'?
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2015
  10. YOguyDA

    YOguyDA Addict

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    That manual should be fine.

    Note: if I remember correctly, there isn't much to see when activating the fuel-cut solenoid.

    Cut a little insulation off of the power and ground wires...while keeping it running, take a jumper wire from the battery and test it...like I said, my solenoid was fine, but it wasn't getting power. And just the opposite on my other 22r, it wasn't getting ground (same symptoms, same basic fix...).
     
  11. davidg1228

    davidg1228 Member

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    Update:
    I played with the with timing and adjusted correctly.
    I was able to adjust the carb to keep it running.
    I test the fuel cut off solenoid and it tested good.
    Tested the outer control valve and it tested good as well.
    Tested the choke heater and it tested fine.
    I also used a vacuum pump to test the choke opener, choke braker, HAI diaphragm they all held vacuum.

    The outcome: i took it for a drive and all seemed to be fine again but on the way back after hard acceleration it die after a few minuets of holding / peddling the gas peddle it was able to idle. So I am back to square 1.

    Question: I have a California truck. Do I need vacuum check valve in-line with the distributor advance? Also, when adjusting the timing, which of the two vacuum lines do I block off? When I adjusted the timing last night I just blocked off both.

    Thanks
     
  12. YOguyDA

    YOguyDA Addict

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    Both vacuum lines plugged is fine....

    I still think you should rule out the fuel cut solenoid and aap valve.... just saying, sometimes things aren't clean cut and simple.
     
  13. MrDinkleman

    MrDinkleman Addict

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    Thanks for starting this thread and all the input so far.

    This almost sounds like my truck (1988, 22R) as well. It starts up, fast idle and then as it starts to warm up it won't hold idle. I have to keep goosing the gas pedal. It runs impossibly rich, as evidenced by the thick black clouds of smoke and the black spot under the tail pipe on the ground.

    One thing that is different (or I haven't read in this thread yet) is that after my truck is fully warmed up, it still won't idle. I have to turn off my truck, let it sit for about 1 minute and then "something" resets so that when I start it back up, it runs perfectly. It even passes smog check, no problem.

    I had the carb replaced with a rebuilt carb a few years ago and it did it from the beginning; so I am pretty sure it is not the carb. It is probably one of the thousands of emissions control gewgaws somewhere in the engine compartment. The dealer just raised the idle speed way up to cover up the non-idle issue. No point in taking it back to the same people who screwed it up...

    I haven't had the time or space to figure out the problem so I just drive it as it is. I hope in a few months to be able to work on my truck.

    So please figure this out.. ( j/k :) :) :) )
     
  14. davidg1228

    davidg1228 Member

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    YOguyDA... so are you suggesting that I replace the Fuel Cut Solenoid with another unit? I tested it and seems fine.. Does the solenoid have a rubber O-ring? Or is it just the copper O-ring between the solenoid and carb housing?
     
  15. YOguyDA

    YOguyDA Addict

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    I'm saying that eventhough it tested ok, you can't check it off the list yet.

    I dropped a lot of F-bombs, tested everything according to the manual and spent hundreds of dollars chasing carb problems and it ended up being something simple....and stupid...and something NOT in the manual.

    The fuel cut solenoid has two wires, positive and negative. Use a jumper wire from your battery to test it, while it is running. If it doesn't magically run better when you test it this way, then, I would rule it out.
     
  16. davidg1228

    davidg1228 Member

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    Ok I understand now... I will try it when i get home tonight .. I was up to almost mid-night trying to figure it out but i didn't get any where really... so here is a new question... when I start the truck while having unplugged the green round connect which connects all three electrical components.. should the truck start? If i disconnect it while the truck is running should it idle funny or shut down? Thank you a lot for all of your input! I will update some more with picture hopefully tomorrow.
     
  17. YOguyDA

    YOguyDA Addict

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    Its been a while, but if you were to unplug the green plug, while its running, it should die. U can try it and if it dies, I guess the solenoid should be functioning.

    I just cut a little nick of insulation off of each wire to make testing it easier. I think I tried running a wire out of the plug (while connected) and it was just a pain and still wondering if the wire stayed put...
     
  18. davidg1228

    davidg1228 Member

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    Ok so i disconnected the green plug and it stays running? Does this mean that the solenoid is bad?

    Yesterday, I played with it a bit more and I was finally able to keep it running at a descent idle... so now i am even more confused ...

    I will keep you guys posted if anything changes or if i find a fix...
     
  19. YOguyDA

    YOguyDA Addict

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    Did you test the solenoid like I said?

    I think your solenoid is perfectly fine, BUT if you don't have switched POWER or a good GROUND, it wont function...see where I'm going?
     
  20. YOguyDA

    YOguyDA Addict

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    Any updates?
     

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