Subwoofer and amplifier pairing help

Discussion in 'Interior/Electronics' started by IronNam, Jul 26, 2014.

  1. IronNam

    IronNam Grand Toyotaholic

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    Alright guys, here's the run down.


    Currently in the good ole Lux, she's got a Kicker Comp Vr 12" sub, some beat up one that's on its way out. It's mated up with some Sony 1000W amp I got from Wal Mart 4 years ago, I don't remember which one because I'm not with my truck right now.


    I ordered an Alpine SWR-10D4 10" sub to put in the xcab rear cubby, i'll build an enclosure to mount it there.
    Alpine SWR-10D4 Type-R 10" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield.com

    details are...
    10" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils
    Kevlar reinforced pulp cone with HAMRS Santoprene rubber surround
    frequency response: 26-200 Hz
    power handling: 300-1,000 watts RMS (500 watts per coil)
    peak power: 3,000 watts
    sensitivity: 82.1 dB
    top-mount depth: 5-7/8"
    sealed box volume: 0.48-0.93 cu. ft.
    ported box volume: 0.83-1.38 cu. ft.


    What I'm trying to figure out is what amplifier to even use on this subwoofer.
    Is that Sony 1000W thing sufficient to power the sub? I'm not here to build a mind-blowing system that'll crack concrete.

    Will the Alpine mono MRX-M110 be able to do the job?
    Alpine MRX-M110 Mono subwoofer amplifier — 1,100 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com

    details are...
    mono subwoofer car amplifier
    650 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (1,100 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms)
    800 watts RMS x 1 at 1 ohm
    CEA-2006 compliant
    variable low-pass filter (50-400 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
    variable bass boost (0-12 dB at 50 Hz)
    variable subsonic filter (5-30 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
    optional remote level control (RUX-KNOB)
    Class D amp with MOSFET power supply
    preamp and speaker-level inputs
    preamp outputs
    fuse rating: 25A x 4
    4-gauge power and ground leads recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
    13-3/8"W x 2-5/16"H x 9-1/16"D


    Thanks for the replies in advance. Got the sub for a good deal and didn't think about amplifier options.

    I see that the subwoofer is a dual voice coil @ 4ohms and has a RMS rating between 300-1000W and the Alpine amp is sitting at 650W @ 4ohms...
     
  2. IronNam

    IronNam Grand Toyotaholic

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    Mods delete this.
     
  3. Gr8KornHolio

    Gr8KornHolio Veteran

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    Well, I'm sure your aware, not all 1000 watts are the same. Look for RMS power at 12 volts. That'll be your true power. Most amps are rated at 14 volts. Now I'm sure that alpine amp at 2 ohms( which is what it'll be at when you run both 4 ohm coils in parrallel to a mono amp) will be pushing a clean 1100 watts. Not sure about the Sony. That is an excessive amount of power for a single 10" I used to run 1000 watts to a pair of 12's in an S10 I had in high school. It rattled the truck apart, literally.

    Now the sub has a low sensitivity, so you will need decent power to make it louder. I'd also stick with mono amps since you have the dual voice coils.

    Here is the links to a setup I recently put in a friends 2000 ish F150. If he turns up the bass, it drowns out the fronts.

    Amp: Kenwood KAC-8406 4-channel car amplifier — 70 watts RMS x 4 at Crutchfield.com

    70 watts to fronts, and 200 watts bridged mono to sub

    Sub: Kicker 40CWS104 CompS Series 10" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com

    Sensitivity is 86.2

    We used the front channels of the amp to run his door speakers, which I believe are 5 1/4's.

    Are you going to be powering the fronts off an amp or using the radio deck?

    Ok, I took a look at that sub, and yes, that would be a great amp for that sub, just realize, that is going to be a LOT of BOOM in that truck. My old S10 system broke the metal shaft that held my rearview mirror on, rattled off a side mirror, and you couldn't drive with the stereo on and the windows rolled up cause of the compression in the cab.
     
  4. IronNam

    IronNam Grand Toyotaholic

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    Never mind on the thread closure, mods.



    I talked to a friend and I'm going to be running correctly at 2 ohms.
    I looked at the Hifonics stuff and they're some quality, high efficiency D Class mono amps there.


    I ordered a Hifonics Brutus BRX1400.1D, the specs were right and so was the price. Compared to the Alpine stuff that was available, this made much more sense.
    It's affordable, 900W RMS @ 2 ohm, I'll be happy with that.

    Amazon.com : Hifonics BRX1400.1D Brutus Vehicle Mono Subwoofer Amplifier : Car Electronics

    I appreciate the reply, sir. Lots of things for me to understand about audio tech.
    I think the Sony 1000W can be retired, but it still works and I may use that to supplement the speakers. (If possible.)
    Currently the front 4" Kenwood speakers and rear 6.5" Alpine speakers are powered off the Sony head unit. It already amplifies the speakers themselves.
    The 4" speakers have been there for a long time before I started driving the truck in 08/09. They still play pretty well, but whenever they go out, I think 5.5's under the dash would be sufficient.



    I feel like I'm rambling on, haha. Reaching the 12 hour mark of my shift.

    With the new Alpines replacing the old Sony 6x9's, it was a DRAMATIC increase of clarity and depth in the audio itself, I absolutely love it. I'm ready to get rid of this old sub box and have a new subwoofer mounted in that xcab compartment. If I'm right, this new set up will be pretty sharp and responsive.
     
  5. AF Yota

    AF Yota Newbie

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    This has been extremely helpful. Ive been looking into upgrading my POS system in my truck for some time. Just got to save up that A1C pay now haha. Ironnam your truck is amazing. I got a 94 as well and your truck was the reason I joined the forum
     

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