ok guys so i've been MIA for a few years. joined here when i purchased my 93 pickup in search of suspension guidance. alot has happened since then but to start off heres my truck.....

1JZ Toyota Pickup Burnout / Bishnu Memorial - YouTube

this was a memorial service/meet for a known local guy who passed away in a car accident on his way to car meet.

nothing much done to the pickup. 1jz motor on stock twins and ecu. full exhaust and ebay intercooler. mk4 supra tt fuel pump and slightly bigger than stock injectors. as you can see i was lazy enough to leave the ecu in the engine bay lol. running the factory trans with an act clutch.

now onto the point of this thread....

my trucks been sitting for years mainly because i lost 1st and 2nd gear(are you surprised??) and also because i've been going thru alot personally, financially, also had a kid etc.... so yea now i finally have time and some extra cash to put into my truck so i'd like to finish what i started. im getting ready to pull the setup out to freshen up the motor with new seals and timing belt. also debating on single turbo setup or blitz k26 twin kit. hopefully score an aem v1 for good price. new clutch and tranny. but my main issue is my REAR END. in the past month i did 2 burnouts in reverse so im sure i broke some more ****. i'd like to be able to launch this thing with minimal traction loss but at the same time i'm not trying to be a 1/4 mile monster. it'll still be my work truck but i do have a few grudge matches with some local guys i need to take care of.

im a noob when it comes to diffs and of course i'm still new to this truck thing. my goal is to get a rear end that'll be stronger than stock, easy fitment(meaning minimal fabrication) and some better traction. i've read about the v6 pickup rear ends are good and that i can use a supra diff in there? confirmation from someone? or what do you guys recommend for me??

thanks in advance

 

V6 had an 8" diff. Supra had a LSD.

You can also go with an explorer 8.8. And get disc brake at the same time.

Or a Ford 9". Tried and true

 

G code 8" with a V6 diff and supra limited slip. It'll all bolt together and bolt right in place of the piece of shiat 7.5" factory axle.

 

now that's funny...forward gears gone but you still wanted more burnouts...

Awesome swap I'm leaning more towards a 1JZ swap over the 1UZ. First I gotta get my 1JZ 1984 Celica GTS finished..

 

is the ford setup just as straight foward as the toyota 8? i have a friend going to a junkyard soon so i just need to tell him what car to get it out of.

and as for the toyota setup. does it has to be off of a v6 rwd or 4wd(again i'm new to trucks). also do any of those toyota rears use rear disc? i'm also assuming the rear end would have to be off the corresponding generation v6 truck (89-94)

 

i was in that same debate before i swapped to a jz. the 1uz looked like alot of fun on youtube videos but i ended up scoring a 1jz motor for damn near free. had all the missing parts in the garage so i put it together. you'll love the 1j!! and trust me a 1jz in a celica would be just as fun! i've actually been eyeing those cars lately lol

 

The rear wheel drive celicas are awesome and handle great if it's a GTS with IRS. I swapped a complete Celica Supra rear subframe so I have the 7.5" LSD instead of the original 6.75" w open diff.

I want to get back on my celica project soon.. I did the 1JZ swap and got it running and driving but it has a problem where fuel pressure drops as soon as it gets boost or revs high. I was working on figuring it out, then I got into street bikes and started road racing(on the track) and the celica has been sitting for 3 years now lol.

proof


I'll be following this thread to see what you do with the rear. I know the 8" toyota rears mentioned are drum brakes, but can be converted to discs. I haven't seen if you can convert to discs and keep the parking brake, which I would want to have.

 

Either a V6 or carbureted 22r truck with a 4 speed will have the G code axle. Yes you want the axle from the same generation. An earlier generation axle will work but it will be a bit narrower which may or may not be a good thing depending on what you want to do. None of the earlier (pre 95) rear ends came with discs but they aren't hard to install if needed. I'll be swapping discs onto the back of my auto x truck this winter.



It's easy to ID the correct axle by glancing under trucks. You just have to look for the drain plug on the bottom of the housing. If it is on the passenger side of the diff it is a 7.5, drivers side drain plug is 8".

 

@suprafreak13 tell me some more about the fuel pressure issue. i might be able to help you out with diagnosing the problem. i'm pretty good with wiring as well troubleshooting these motors

how do you know its a fuel pressure drop? are you actually looking at a fuel pressure gauge while driving or are you watching an air/fuel gauge? also whats your fuel setup look like? and have you checked your engine codes?

 

driver side drain plug CHECK

thanks man

 

Yup here's mine in the 90.

 

whew it's a long story.

Yes I had a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the rail while driving and it drops when the problem happens..I've tried a known good fuel rail/regulator to rule that out.

My issue I believe is with the tank/pump set up. My first tank had a clog in the tube that feeds the sump so I got a better tank...Originally I had a Walbro 255 in line above the tank, not knowing it needs a lift pump in the tank to run correctly. So I got two more pumps, put one in the tank and replaced the inline pump I figured may have overheated. I think the issue now is that I just split the fuel pump wires to feed both pumps, so I think neither are getting correct voltage and they are fighting each other.

My other theory was that the sump was sucking dry faster than the feed tube fills it.. So I was going to cut some extra holes in the sump...But that wouldn't make much sense because the return line dumps into the sump, UNLESS the return flow was creating turbulence that cause the pickup to be sucking air also....

I was working on it....then I got a sport bike and started road racing and building bikes so the car got put on the back burner.

any advise is appreciated....My next coarse of action was going to be removing the inline pump, and running a relay to the in tank pump so I now it's getting 12V+