hi everyone. I want to get my exhaust completely redone, but i want to do it myself rather than buying a kit. anybody have pics of their exhaust setup? i keep running into clearance issues with frame, bed, brake lines, etc.
I want to run it out the DS rear... where the factory tailpipe petrudes out, but i want it straight out the back. So i know im going to have to cut out a hole for the tip. Im fine with that. the piping though... i'm looking for some guidance as to how to route it there. right now im dumping right before the rear axle.
just use factory exhaust pipes and cut right after it clears the axle and starts to turn to the side. run pipe straight back. done! only problem you might run into is the spare tire, but pretty sure its not going to be an issue. i ran dual exhaust on my old truck, never had issues with frame, bed, brake lines or anything. are you trying to run 4" piping or something?
3" piping. although i've come up with a solution to the spare tire issue...i think lol. i don't haul anything or ever have anything in my bed...so i think im going to make a mount for the spare, in the bed...basically just flip the whole damn thing over =P i want to keep the extra weight there.
Just out of curiosity, why 3"? You want to keep the exhaust velocity up on an NA motor. You don't really want "back pressure" per se, but the higher velocity of the smaller tube size will help with with scavenging making better low end torque. Or are you turboed?
I have a full 2.5" on my 78. Straight back from the header. Muffler at the front of the bed. 45* bend on the muffler with another 45* on that. Makes a wider 90* than what they had. It's all parts store sections slipped and clamps together. Comes out in front of the driver back tire. Runs between the frame and leaf. Should work similar on a 90s truck. I later welded up most of the joints. Left the rears unwelded to make taking it off easy when I 4 link it. For yours to jump the axle I think a 45* to a 45* or maybe some 60*s then another down the back to come out where you want it. You could kick outside the frame as it comes down from the axle too. Lotta space there. Gonna run a big tip or fart can? Ill find pics of my exhaust.
You do not want 3 inch pipe on a r series motor . The gains if any will be minimal and misplaced in the power band it will be loud and not a good loud ... R series doesn't expell enough exhaust velocity to fill or outflow a 21/2 inch pipe .. Proven power comes from 2-1/4 to muffler 21/2 from muffler to tailpipe high built motors using 2.1/2 all the way Bigger is not always better . When it comes to bolt ons choosing the right combination of bolt on performance matched for the motors capability . Will net you much better results
awesome, time to do work... i have the factory exhaust tubing all the way to my rear axle. My factory muffler literally FELL OFF a couple weeks after i bought it, and i had a can collecting dust in my garage...so i threw it on. the can has a 3.5" tip, and i was thinking of running the same diameter, from the tip, out the rear end. It sounds great though to be honest! there's no rasp like 99% of cans, just a low deep gargle. i'm going to take all of your advice tho, and re-do the entire exhaust, because i pulled my bed off today and found a bunch of rust spots and bad welds. thank you all =)
A while back when my factory exhaust died, I built a 2.25" setup and eliminated the cat. I wasn't really ever happy with it. Although it sounded good, there was a noticeable drop in low end torque. When I had a local shop rebuild it a while later, they used 2" OD pipe. It sounded about the same, but had a noticeable increase in low end torque. Mind you, this was all proven with my butt dyno.
2" will provide more port velocity and help with low end power. 2.5" will be louder but flow much better on the top end. I'd do 2 or 2.25" on a stock or mild motor. 2.5" on a built up motor.
hmm, then i guess there is some TQ that i'm missing? idk, the only time i've noticed better low end TQ is...believe it or not, when i switched from conventional 20-50w to Royal Purple full synthetic 15-40w. DRASTIC improvement!! i've used all sorts of different oil in my truck, and by far Royal Purple is worth its price!! that's off topic i know =P so back to the exhaust. I'm not planning on building this motor up, i'm about to roll 300k miles, and just want to see how long i can go before its had enough. I'm pretty sure my piston rings are just carbon rings by now lol, and my wrist pins are pretty much done. For the new motor, however, i'd like to have the exhaust already in place. So with a completely stock, new 22re, i should go with a 2" - 2.1/4" OD piping?
Nam, I disagree. On a stock motor I think the 2" will perform better for daily driving. The noticeable difference with the 2.5" will be top end, and since for the most part we don't wind these things up on a daily basis, the power band would be better suited on the low end. Remember, these are tractor motors.
Well clearly, the best way to do this is to go with the "best of both worlds" on the exhaust: Do a 4in. exhaust all the way from the exhaust manifold back to the tip, then weld the top of a carburetor, with the butterfly valves onto the exhaust tip and connect the throttle linkage of said valves to the gas pedal. Viola! restricted exhaust for low end torque and a wide open, free-flowing, oversized exhaust when you hammer the skinny pedal! Ok, seriously, don't listen to me.
HAHAHAHA thats the kinda thinking thats always gettin me into trouble =P i like it!.....not even going to consider it as a possibility, but i like! Litneon most of my driving is highway between 85-90mph
Get a header. Where the collector is, cut that off. Keep each pipe on its own. Run 4 1.5" pipes back to the bumper. Should work great.