Well figured i'd start a build thread for my 95 single cab 2wd 5spd 4cyl. I picked up this truck from a friend or rather friend of a friend for 1500 bucks. Truck has some damage to the passenger side from hitting a deer (P.O) and a dent in the cab from my best man getting to drunk and using as a baseball tee to hit a whiskey bottle with a shovel (hence the thread name) to make matters worse the truck had a new head put on by P.O. and has since overheated 16x before it finally gave up. Which brings us up to today.

Plan for the truck: to be a low daily with drifting/autocross capabilities.
Mods so far: middle leaf removed, torsion bars loosened to level out truck, side exit exhaust (will be re-routed back to stock location) and engine delete mod.

Pictures to come.....once i figure out how

 

Welcome aboard. Where are you located? Looking forward to the photos

 

heres the first set of pics......hopefully

 

located in ventura with a shop in saticoy, trucks pretty dirty at the moment but will be getting cleaner in time

 

heres some of the distractions keeping me from my truck, built 6 point cage for drift car, c-notch (inside skinned then boxed) and mustang 2 conversion on old f100 unibody truck (jag irs in the works) and my other project 69 bmw 2002... lots of pics for all 3 projects but i'll try and keep on task with the yota

 

....that moment when you pull the used spark plugs out of your brand new head and it takes the threads out of the head , or better when there is a rusty cam installed in your new head and how come theres a chain guide in my oil pan

 

When the timing chain guides (plastic) break, they fall straight down the timing cover and into the pan.

Engnbldr.com has a timing chain kit with steel guides for $58 on his site at engnbldr.com

 

^^ And they have good parts and info all around at engnbldr. I got all the parts to build my 22r short block from those guys. Called and picked their brains a few times and got lots of good info.

 

Thanks for the info, it was odd because there was a chain guide still bolted up that looked new. It was like they broke it and said oh well just bolt a new one in and didnt bother getting the old scraps out.... going over all the parts tomorrow to see what i gotta replace, if the cams to pitted to reuse then i guess i'll have to upgrad

 

Looks like a great project. What are your plans for the 2002?

 

For now plans with the 2002 for now are to complete the 5 spd and fuel injected m10 swap from a e21. I welded the diff and replaced the rusty panels and plan to do minor bondo then paint. Once i get it on the road im taking the truck off the road for a c-notch and 3 link and get it where i want it. Later down the road the 2002 will get a big hp swap and caged

 

Ted @ Engnbldr has plenty of good cams to go with. Consult with him what yuo want to go with.


Most people won't bother taking out the old guides on the bottom of the oil pan.

 

Dropping everything off at the machine shop tomorrow, so we'll see if the cam is reusable ... less i have to spend the better, leaves money for wheels and tires with some 3" lowering blocks

 

Well $1300 later I have the machine work done, bored and balanced bottom end and just assembled the bare short block, picked up my new water pump and timing set so maybe tomorrow I'll go down to the shop and finish assembling the long block, took longer then expected but worth the wait

 

Nice job. I'm not trying to pry or anything. But what exactly did you get for $1300? That seems to be pretty pricy for parts and machine work, especially if you built the short block your self.

 

I had the block hot tanked decked and bored, crank caps pulled cleaned and tapped, entire bottom end balanced, head rebuilt and heli coiled stripped plug hole, cam checked, new pistons/rings/bearings/master gasket set/new oil pump/freeze plugs. I had cheaper quotes but this guy builds a lot a race motors for my dads friend and was a lot more thorough and trustworthy. Besides I'm a firm believer in "you get what you pay for"

 

Good deal. I'm also a firm believer in "you get what you pay for". I also had a well known Race/Machine shop do my block work as well.

Keep us posted, The more pics the better.

 

Well, had some more bad luck, went to torque the cam caps down and had one of the bolts pull the threads out of the head (yes I was using a torque wrench set at 14 ft lbs) but my dad drilled and heli coiled it for me and since my head bolts were coroded I decided to replace them rather then risk them stretching so my dad called his buddy at ARP and he's hunting down some new head bolts. Also my djm lca's and 4" blocks showed up today woot woot! The BMW is the color scheme I want for the truck

 

I run my cam caps at 11 foot pounds . I did 14 and was to tight . I no yota oem says 14 . I like my cams to spin with one finger . Fourteen was super tight with with my outlaw head and crower cam although maybe variables from none oem parts

 

I plasti gauged it at 14 ft lbs and it was ok, couldn't get arp head bolts so I picked up some new oem ones today, painted the oil pan and think I'll do the valve cover the same