Figured I would make a build thread for my motor. It may not be the fastest, but it will only be a 20R from top to bottom.

I may not do everything all at once, but the finished product will hopefully be as follows:
20R bottom end.
-Bored .020" over
-Balanced rotating assembly
-Decked for compression (Undecided amount)

20R head
-Ported, polished, and port matched
-22R valves
-LCE Stage 2 cam, or equivalent
-Pacesetter header (Unless I get a good deal on an LCE or DT)
-Holley 500 or Weber Sidedraft(s)

Ive barely even started with this build. I've had the blocked cleaned and bored, crank turned and polished, semi-polished the piston tops, and ported, polished and port matched the head. Waiting until I find a job to get the rotating assembly balanced, and head machined to fit 22R valves. Progress is still progress, it will be completed eventually.

 

Ive got a holley 4bbl street dominator manifold for 20r for sale. Lmk if you are interested.

 

Very nice manifold . . .

 

If I had the money I'd buy it, but I'm broke

 

I got bored just sitting around today, so I started polishing my spare valve cover Not trying for a perfect mirror, just wanting better then boring aluminum or the plain jane paint job






Im nowhere near being done, but it gives me something to do, and it will look pretty good when its done. I plan on going over all of it again with 1000 1500 and 2000grit when I get to the rest of it.

I am thinking either the green of my block or black down the center little strip with the two lines and letters polished on top..

 

Little update: Got my block decked .010" for a little more compression.. dont know how much it affected it but its better then nothing..

ill be putting the bottom end together later this week hopefully!

 

Its coming along nicely. For a carb, a 350 or 500cfm holley 2bbl would be sweet. Or run a normal weber 32/36 since the 20r doesn't need a huge carb. My hybrid breathes through a modded 32/36. Cut the choke horns off (dont need a choke in the NW anyways, just hold high idle for 30 seconds and drive away lol) and stuck bigger jets in the main and idle circuits on primary and secondary sides. on warm days it smells a touch rich but on cooler days its just right. I jetted it on a cold day originally lol.

Should run really nice when you're done. On the valve cover, a cool look would be to sand/bead blast the center strip then use some flat bomb can clear to keep it matte. Or you could stipple the whole area like they do on gun grips. A spring loaded center punch and an 1/8 drill bit would make cool spotting down the center. I've been trying to come up with new looks for mine when I redo it in a few weeks. I am always changing the looks on my truck. Have a few covers to swap around.

You should also grind off the sticker pad at the front. They look really clean with that area smooth. Unless ya plan to find a sticker for it. I am probably gonna run a belt buckle there for accent.

 

Ill be running my 32/36 for a while for sure, atleast until its running good and my wallet gets a little thicker And I like having a choke.. Except I need to adjust it so i dont have to left foot break for a couple blocks

I actually tried to make a diy soda blaster to do the center.. complete failure Im getting my head and my intake blasted for the super clean!

Im going to find a sticker, i think NW Team Yota in LaCenter has them for like 2 bucks, but I could be wrong..

 

eBay has the valve cover stickers too. I tried to find a cooler one that fits but had no luck. A belt buckle came up next. Have a ship anchor one that'll look cool.

Harbor freight has a small handheld sand blaster. Has a gravity feed cup into the air stream. It's purple. Run a fine sand (like a bucket full from the beach) and run it on low air pressure. It cleans aluminum wonderfully and leaves a mild matte surface. Might also have the shop do your valve cover.

If you got a blaster it opens up a world of detailing options. I used to etch designs into my windows with them. Use a vinyl sticker and have them unweeded so you can use either side of the design to blast.

 

Decided to not go all out on this head.. Im going to just lap the valves myself then when i swap this motor in ill go all out on the head that currently in my truck.

I started cleaning a valve to start lapping them and noticed it had a teq cast into it! looks like its a factory valve

 

On a side thought I may go all out, as I just got a job! I'm excited to finally start making money!!! Even better is it is working on motors and guaranteed 40 hours a week! It may be a while before I do anything as I'm probably going to be dead, going from no job to a full time job...

 

Congrats!

 

Not much work, if any, has been done to my motor lately.. Had to do a lot of stuff to start my job and I started working, and just don't have time or energy for much more now.. But I will be getting a lot of work done soon!

Once I get money rolling in I'm going to have the head done, get it surfaced and 22r valves put in. Then I will order a front cover, water pump, oil pump, and all gaskets, go pick up a new cam(it's nice having a local cam grinder!) and I might order stronger valve springs..

I still need to source a oil pan and pick up tube.. Probably just gonna get one at the junkyard when they have a truck like mine..

 

Good job on the job buddy. I mostly build and swap motors all day. It's fun.

And all the valves had that logo. I've thought about using them for accent in projects.

 

I realized after I cleaned all the valves that they all have the logo.. That was the first valve I cleaned that I noticed it.

All day I wire wheel all machined surfaces and all inside the blocks as well as the heads, chase all the threaded holes and run the hot tank and parts washers..

 

So I finally took my head into the machine shop! I'm getting it pressure tested, surfaced, 22r valves put in, and stronger springs to go with the rv2 cam..

Has anyone ever used small block Chevy springs in their head as stronger springs??

 

$249 and a $40 tip for my head.. It isn't finished yet but I'm in no hurry, it'll be done soon enough.

 

I finally have a finished head!
Ended up being machined 22r valves machined in to be correct, SBC valve springs, and an rv2 cam..

Now I just need a gasket set, timing set, timing cover, water pump, oil pump, and oil pan and pick up tube.

 

Nice! Makes me want to rebuild my 22r but at the same time I want to just ditch it and put a v8 in. If only I could have both! Keep it up!

 

Using a online compression ratio calculator I figured out this motor should hopefully be about 9.5:1! That's a whole lot better then the 8.4:1 stock!!